HOWTO Wiki Make Your Own Sim Cord for the CP and the CP Pro

From Heli-Wiki

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5830790/tm.htm

This is for the cp and cpp, although it might work for something like the cx or cx2 somehow.

The trainer cord has the same plug on it as an svideo cable, with one key difference. The eflite Tx uses the outside ring as a ground, and unless you have a shielded svideo cable that you are willing to cut up, then you're going to have to do a little bit of work to it. The first pic is a pic of the temp cable I made just to see if it works. Turns out it works just fin, with one exception. I cannot get the ch5 rotary knob to work. The idle up works and the 4 channels work just fine though. If anyone figures out how to get the channel 5 knob working, please let me know =)

http://bladecp.cbmhacker.com/ this is the main site I used for the mod. It basically uses ppjoy to set up an artifical controller through an input on your sound card.

also check out http://www.smartpropoplus.com/BlueAndGrey/default.asp

and more specifically http://www.smartpropoplus.com/BlueAndGrey/Cables/fms_cables_minidin_esky.html

This mod was made with a free svideo cable that came with my video card on the computer, and a free set of headphones given out by jet blue airways, and some free resistors I pulled out of some old non working electronics, so total cost = free.99

The main thing that you need to do is hook the ground to the tip of the plug (the metal round piece that goes all the way around the outside of the connector) and the positive to the upper (not the middle) conductor on the headphone jack. This is for the left ear or mono. Anyways you can test what cord goes where out of the head phone jack with an ohm meter. In my case since these were free headphones they just had magnet wire in them (the kind with thin clear insulation). If that is the case with yours, just take your solder iron (this is what I used) and put a good amount of solder on it, and just dip the wires one at a time into the solder and move them around until they get too hot (like they might burn up), then move them out and cool them off, and keep repeating until a ball of solder sticks to the end of the wire. Repeat for all the wires so you know what they are to.

if you are using a stereo headphone jack, make sure to only hook up one of the ground leads. There will be two of them, but if you hook them both up, you will get half the resistance on the ground as compared to the signal wire, and that could possibly cause some problems.

repeat the same process with the svideo cable.

When you are looking at the diagram for wiring the remote, remember that when you plug in the svideo cable it will be reverse, ie you cannot look at the socket on the transmitter and the end and compare them side to side thinking the pins will be the same, because they will actually be a mirror image of each other (hopefully that made sense, I'll probably get some pics up sooner or later to explain it better). Also to compensate for the problem with my svideo cable in that no conductor was connected to the outside ground, I bent a pin that wasn't being used into the ground and tested for continuity. At first I was going to solder it, but I don't know of a way to get an iron into a place that small. What I did is shown in the second pic.

Then you can just follow the instructions from there =)

This works very well with FMS

mrasmm

PS feel free to PM me either on RCU or RCgroups if you have any questions or comments